Marché de la Condamine

There are four major districts within Monaco – the tour began in Monte Carlo, the home of the Casino and the home of the Grand Prix, and we have now come to the second district, called Condamine. La Condamine is known for shopping and eating – it is a little more surburban than Monte Carlo.

In particular, we are standing in the Place de la Condamine, the central courtyard within this neighbourhood. Every morning, these have a fruit, vegetable and flower market here, full of local specialities and fresh produce. This market is taken down every day around 1 in the afternoon, to make way for the food stalls within the Marche de la Condamine.

This big long building with the sign reading Marche de la Condamine is the home to lots of little food stalls run by local independent vendors who come in from France and Italy every day. The food is fresh, traditional and really tasty – not only that, it is also very affordable at around 10 or 12 euros a plate.

From France, we have food like the socca – somewhat of a savoury crepe which is made from chickpea flour, oil and salt and garnished with a little pepper. This is a real regional dish; the bread and butter of people living here. If you want something a little fresher, I would recommend a pan bagnat, which is effectively a bread roll with a niçoise salad inside. Again, this is where this type of food comes from, so this is the freshest and the best that it is ever going to be.

From Italy, we have a whole array of options – pizza, focaccia, tiramisu. The little building in the square next to the playground with the brown roof is called Barbiss, it is a lovely place to buy a little coffee if you need a caffeine boost. If you want something a little cooler, I can recommend a nice little gelato place in the arches just behind, made in the traditional Italian method of gelato.

My favourite places is the Maison de Pates, which means House of Pasta in French. It is run by these little Italian nonnas who come over from Genoa every morning, bringing with them fresh pasta, pesto and pasta sauce. Looking at the Plat du Jour – this changes every day and is usually something a little special, specially created by the women that day.

If none of this is to your liking, there is sushi, chicken, seafood and more in this little building; something for everyone. Get a glass of wine as well – you’re in Monaco now, treat yourself.

There are toilets in the far right-hand corner of the building, a supermarket called Utile in the arches if you want to get any snacks or water bottles, or a little water fountain between the benches next to the playground – just turn the knob on the side and you will get plenty of water.

These food stalls all close around 3, but will open up again in the early evening, around 7 or 8 at night, at which point the tables and chairs spread across the courtyard, and sometimes they have live music in the centre to entertain the crowds. If you are still here by this evening, check this area out – it is a really lovely, local part of Monaco which is often overlooked by a great place to have a drink and just relax.